Since basements sit almost entirely underground and typically have concrete or mason block walls, there are often issues with moisture, humidity, and mildew. Have you ever gone downstairs only to be hit with an unpleasant musty smell as you descend? That is due to mildew or other mold that thrives in a cool, damp environment just like the one a basement provides. Mold is not only smelly, but potentially dangerous to your health and depending on the amount of moisture, the integrity of the house itself. A cheap solution to moisture is to run a dehumidifier and empty it frequently. A permanent fix is closed cell spray foam insulation which will act as a vapor/moisture barrier and provide some relief from the temperature swings a basement can be subject to.

You must make sure that your contractor stays up to code when finishing your basement. Something that often gets lost in translation and adds significant expense is the requirement for egress windows. These serve an extremely important safety function as they allow escape from fire if it is burning the stairs or other method of exit. The general principle is that at least one egress window at an accessible height is needed for every bedroom and living area, but check your local jurisdiction’s code to make sure you’re safe. The last thing you want is an unexpected expense cropping up when the project is almost finished. Lack of egress options will lead to a failed occupancy inspection and are just plain dangerous.

As mentioned before, basements are often the default utility rooms of the house. You might have a furnace, water heater, fuse box, and distribution frame battling for real estate in the basement and none of them are easily moved or avoided. These essential systems must be maintained throughout the project to keep normal function for the rest of the home and often need some adjustments or tie-ins to complete the basement project. There are not many options here except to pay careful attention and only touch what you absolutely must. Many times, we find that the utilities are quite outdated so there could be an opportunity to replace them with smaller, more efficient, newer models and free up space in that way.

While insulation will greatly help with the moisture and temperature issues, the floor of a basement can get chilly and uncomfortable despite the insulation’s effect. One option to tackle this would be to install a thin layer of sub-floor that provides electric heat when turned on. Normally when heated floors are desired the piping will be laid prior to pouring the concrete floor of the basement. If a floor is already in place then the thin, electric version can be installed and provide a similar effect. Choosing carpet over a tiled floor and moving the duct work down to floor level also can help mitigate the cold feet effect!